Men's Skincare Basics, Minus the Ten-Step Nonsense

Look at the edge of most men's sinks and you will find a bar of soap doing three jobs badly. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends swapping it, on the face at least, for a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water. That single change is where a proper routine begins, and the rest is shorter than you think.

Know what you're working with

Skin type decides almost every product choice, so figure yours out before spending money. Dermatologists sort skin into five broad types. Normal skin is clear and comfortable. Dry skin feels tight or flaky. Oily skin looks shiny by midday. Combination skin is oily through the forehead, nose and chin and drier elsewhere. Sensitive skin stings, burns or reddens after products.

A simple test is to wash your face, leave it bare for a few hours, then look. Shine everywhere points to oily. Tightness points to dry. Shine only through the center of the face points to combination. Plenty of men are surprised by the answer. If you still can't tell, a dermatologist can.

The morning routine, in three steps

The core is three products, used daily.

Cleanser first. The AAD advises washing your face every day and after exercise, using a gentle facial cleanser rather than a bar of soap. Massage it in with fingertips, rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry. Hot water and rough towels are harder on skin than they need to be.

Moisturizer second. Apply it while your skin is still slightly damp, right after showering or shaving, so it holds in water. The AAD recommends moisturizing even if your skin runs oily. Just pick a lighter formula, such as a gel or lotion rather than a heavy cream.

Sunscreen third. The AAD recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant SPF 30 or higher on all exposed skin, including the ears, neck and scalp if your hair is thin, plus a lip balm with SPF. Reapply about every two hours outdoors. On a normal office day, a moisturizer with broad-spectrum SPF 30 can cover the last two steps in one. Our sunscreen guide for men explains how to read the label and how much to use.

That is the whole daily routine. Serums, toners and masks can come later if you are curious, but none of them replace the basics. Consistency beats complexity. Three products used every day will do more for you than ten used whenever you remember.

Read the label before you buy

Labels tell you more than the marketing does. If you are prone to breakouts, look for products marked oil-free or non-comedogenic, which are formulated not to clog pores. If your skin is sensitive, choose products labeled fragrance-free. The AAD flags a trap here. Unscented is not the same thing, and an unscented product may still contain fragrance used to mask the smell of other ingredients.

Packaging can be beautiful and still sensible. Aesop made a whole brand out of sober brown bottles and dense ingredient copy, a story we tell in our history of Aesop and its apothecary design. Read the back of any bottle the same way you would read the spec sheet on a watch. What is actually in it, and does it suit you?

Introduce one new product at a time and give it a few weeks before you judge it. If your skin reacts, stop using it. Mixing four new products in a week makes it impossible to tell which one caused the problem.

Shaving is skin care

For many men, shaving is the hardest daily event their face goes through. The AAD's advice is practical. Soften the hair first with warm water, use a moisturizing shave cream, shave in the direction the hair grows and rinse the blade after every stroke. Replace the blade every five to seven shaves. If you get razor burn, bumps or ingrown hairs, the AAD suggests trying a single- or double-blade razor rather than a multi-blade cartridge.

That is a big reason the double-edge razor has made such a comeback, and our safety razor and wet shaving guide covers technique from lather to finish. If you have stopped shaving altogether, the skin under the beard still needs cleaning and moisturizing, which is the subject of our beard care guide.

When to see a dermatologist

No routine replaces a doctor. Check your skin regularly, including your back with a mirror or a partner's help. The AAD advises watching for new spots, and for moles that itch, bleed or change color, since these can be warning signs of skin cancer. It also notes that men over 50 have a higher risk of melanoma, and that caught early, it is highly treatable.

Book a board-certified dermatologist for anything suspicious, for acne that does not settle with basic care, or if you are simply unsure what your skin needs. The AAD's skin care tips for men are a good reference to bring along.

For more routines and tools, browse the Quiet Menace grooming section and our skincare and grooming essentials hubs. Start tonight by moving the bar of soap back to the shower where it belongs.